Tomas de Courcy

Salting Meat

After many years I decided to update my article on salting meat. Here it is as printed in the February edition of the Kingdom of Avacal newsletter the Avantgarde. You can find the old version here.

Salting Meat

The salting of meat was a preferred preservation method for most of the SCA time period (600-1600 AD). Several other methods were used as well, such as storing in cool areas, drying, etc., but salting has all the advantages of drying food with the added advantage of being much safer for larger pieces of meat.

Salting meat allowed for the preservation, storage, and transport of meat without refrigeration.  According to Food in Medieval England “it was a routine procedure on big estates for deer to be hunted according to season, when the meat was at its best, and the venison prepared and stored in larders till needed, and in this case heavier salting would be necessary” (Woolgar, Serjeantson and Waldron 2006, 181).  The salting of venison was common in great households, so much so that there were quite often men whose sole job was the preservation of food.  They would accompany the huntsmen so as to make sure that the deer were treated properly and would be preserved properly (Woolgar, Serjeantson and Waldron 2006, 181).

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago

Medieval Bacon

Update April 2018: I went back and reworked the entirety of this for Kingdom A&S. You can see the documentation here:Pre-17c Bacon and photos here.

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A friend of mine jokes that I beat her in an A&S competition because I bribed the judges with bacon. Well I’m a fan of bacon (though not to the extent of the bacon craziness of two years ago) but I’ve always just used a thick cut good quality bacon from the butchers. When it was announced that February’s Montengarde Culinary Group meeting was going to be all about dishes with bacon or pork my wife suggested that I try making bacon.

So, medieval bacon.

This is an interesting one because we don’t have a whole lot of period info about how they made bacon.

Bacon

Because this is such a long post I’m giving a basic summary here.

Essentially I couldn’t find any proof for smoked bacon until the very end of the 16th century. Instead the defining feature was that it was salt cured and dried. Smoke was likely an option but the concerns around the heat from the smoke making the fat of
the bacon turn rancid seem to have kept it from being the main method as it is now. Cold-smoking could have been done but only if they were using nitrites as well.

I’m using a recipe based on combining what I found pre-1600 with the 18th century recipes. The end result is a very salty bacon that should taste very very similar to what Medieval and Renaissance bacon would taste like. The addition of sugar, though likely a post period innovation, is used to cut the saltiness. Nitrites are used because most of the secondary sources mention it, for the food safety, as well as because it is heavily used by the time the first actual recipes show up; combining that with its availability at the time and I’m going to call its use plausible.

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago

Redacting a Recipe

Note (May 18 2017): Since this was published I’ve been thinking about the terms we use. Commonly in the SCA the recreation of a period recipe with modern measurements has been called a redaction. I’m not sure why though, but the word has been used as long as the SCA’s been using the internet. I’ve come across SCA recipes calling themselves redaction as far back as 1995 and even one that may have been from ’93. Now that is of course an allowed use of the term, OED lists definition 1b as “The action or process of revising or editing text, esp. in preparation for publication; (also) an act of editorial revision.” So it’s not completely wrong. But I haven’t been able to find a use of it outside the SCA for culinary uses. Mistress Kataryna brought up that it’s used in recreating music and sometimes in bringing together multiple texts to recreate what the original text was  in English literature, but I suspect the use of the word in the SCA has gone beyond its definition. Because of that I’m now switching instead to ‘recreation’ ‘reconstruction’ and ‘interpretation’, though I may still use ‘redaction’ occasionally. However this article will remain as it is with no changes as the term ‘redaction’ is still in common use in the SCA.

Redacting a period recipe yourself is the backbone of period cooking. It lets you get the feel of how people in your chosen time period felt about cooking, how they talked about cooking, and lets you adapt within the framework of the original recipe rather than someone else’s adaptation.

With that in mind I have three rules for redacting:

Rule one: context matters
Rule two: a single recipe proves nothing
Rule three: don’t be afraid of experimenting

To walk you through the basics of redacting I’m going to uses the “Strained Peas” recipe I did a few months ago.

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago

Syrup of Pomegranates

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And a third and final recipe inspired by this month’s Montengarde Culinary Group’s meeting.

While looking for a “light” recipe or one that made me think of warmer climates I decided on Andalusia. Southern Spain sounded warm to me and during the time period it would have been very exotic as well, being one of the main connecting points for Muslim Africa and Christian Europe.

This recipe was chosen mostly for my son who has decided that he loves pomegranates (pomegranate candy as he calls it).

Today’s recipe is from An Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook of the 13th Century as translated by Charles Perry. The cookbook is originally known as Kitab al-Tabeekh fi ‘l-Maghrib wa ‘l-Andalus fi ‘Asr al-Muwahhidin or Cookbook of Al-Maghrib and Andalusia in the era of Almohads (Writing Food History: A Global Perspective)

Syrup of Pomegranates

Take a ratl of sour pomegranates and another of sweet pomegranates, and add their juice to two ratls of sugar, cook all this until it takes the consistency of syrup, and keep until needed. Its benefits: it is useful for fevers, and cuts the thirst, it benefits bilious fevers and lightens the body gently.

It’s a fairly straightforward recipe. A few points need to be added though.

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago

Fried Spinach

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This month’s Montengarde Culinary Group night is themed “In the Bleak Midwinter”

 “In the Bleak Midwinter” theme – cook period dishes that remind you of warmer times or are from warmer places! No comfort food here – let’s see your vegetables, sallets, light desserts, and the like!

So with that in mind I was looking at spinach pie again, but then I got thinking – I wonder what other spinach recipes there are, maybe something simple, with a few ingredients, and something old, a base concept that gets reused later in other dishes.

So with that in mind it’s time for Fried Spinach.

Today’s recipe comes from Forme of Cury from 1390 England as reproduced in 1780.

Untitled

 

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago

Spinach Tart

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I was doing the prep work on January’s Culinary Group and I realized I never posted the Spinach Tart. Now this is an easy dish we usually use for potlucks. It’s fast, takes very little time to make, and everyone loves it. We’ve done it as a big tart, we’ve done it as individual tarts, we’ve even done it gluten free.

We originally found the recipe at Medievalcookery.com and went back to the source then worked from there, but we have also made it the way Daniel Myers described and it’s just as good.

The recipe is from one of my go-to cook books Le Menagier de Paris as translated by Janet Hinson.

TO MAKE A TART, take four handfuls of beet-leaves, two handfuls of parsley, one handful of chervil, a bit of turnip-top and two handfuls of spinach, and clean them and wash them in cold water, then chop very small: then grate two kinds of cheese, that is one mild and one medium, and then put eggs with it, yolk and white, and grate them in with the cheese; then put the herbs in the mortar and grind them up together, and also add to that some powdered spices. Or in place of this have first ground up in the mortar two pieces of ginger, and over this grate your cheeses, eggs and herbs, and then throw in some grated old pressed cheese or some other such on to the herbs, and carry to the oven, and then make it into a tart and eat it hot.

 

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By Tomas de Courcy, ago